We got to try Raku which is right beside XO 46. Both places are owned by the same couple, Andrew and Sandee Masigan
Previous entry: XO 46 September 5, 2011
I am not really a Ramen person but James is. So he had the Ramen and I had the hotdog which I thought was something unique and Chef CK said that it was inspired by the popular Japadog from Vancouver!
The place was full for lunch! Thank you again to Chef CK Kalaw for hosting our lunch. Small world since I found out CK is the bestfriend of my cousin, Robbie! And that the owner Sandee Masigan is the food stylist for SansRival magazine of Rustan’s Supermarket. More power to Chef CK and Andrew and Sandee!!
Hokkaido is the largest and northernmost of Japan’s 47 prefectural-level subdivisions. It is bordered by the Sea of Japan, the Sea of Okhotsk and the Pacific Ocean. A popular vacation destination for the Japanese because of its cool climates, Hokkaido was the host of the 1972 Winter Olympics, which took place in its capital, Sapporo. Its clear bodies of water, snow-capped mountains and pastoral beauty lend Hokkaido a stunning and serene enigma.
Sapporo was the birthplace of miso ramen. The incorporation of miso in the soup gives the broth a fuller, earthier flavor, in addition to certain nutritional values thanks to its high levels of vitamins and minerals. According to Andrew Masigan, the entrepreneur behind Advent Manila restaurants, “The secret to good ramen is in the broth.” Assimilating the fermented miso into the soup provides a comforting, filling and flavorful experience.
Andrew would know. As a former recipient of the Monbukagakusho (formerly Monbusho) Scholarship, Andrew studied at Japan’s exclusive Sophia University, famous for educating such greats as Morihiro Hosokawa, Japan’s 79th Prime Minister; the late Hisashi Inoue, award-winning playwright and author; and George Takei of Star Trek fame. In spite of the prestige of his academic institution, Andrew found himself staying with a family that was not well-off. The host family’s house was literally just a place to sleep; Andrew had to find work for his own spending money during his semester-long sojourn. He found himself apprenticed at a ramen house. His food & beverage entrepreneurial skills awoke during this time; he handled virtually every single job in the little ramen house. A love for authentic Japanese ramen awoke in Andrew and it was just a matter of time before the consummate businessman began his own ramen house.
As a purist in life and work ethic, it is not surprising therefore that Andrew as chosen Hokkaido ramen as his inspiration for the culinary fare at his little Japanese restaurant, Raku. Nestled comfortably in the heart of Manila’s Central Business District, “raku” is literally translated into “sense of bliss” or “happiness and contentment.” The food served at Raku strives to commit to this promise – to have its patrons leave happy, contented, fulfilled and blissfully sated. Hokkaido food was a no-brainer for Andrew; as the center of agriculture of Japan, its popular products are Kobe and Wagyu beef. Since the cows are treated with so much care and concern, the meat and dairy products that come from Hokkaido serve as the perfect foundation for Raku’s heartening gastronomy. Says Andrew, “Filipinos are more familiar with Shoyu ramen (literally, soy-based broth). The Japanese however typically prefer thicker and more substantial sauces, or the types made with miso.” As we know, miso ramen originated in Sapporo, Hokkaido’s capital.
Keeping with his promise of faithfulness to original Hokkaido cuisine, Andrew has infused Raku’s menu with many ramen choices – not just miso ramen, although he will admit that this variation is his favorite. Raku has variations of the four basic ramen flavors: Shoyu (soy-based), Shio (salt), Tonkatsu (pork broth) and, of course, miso. Served with characteristic Japanese minimalism on beautiful pottery imported straight from the inscrutable country, Raku is easily an authority on Japanese noodle preparation. However, it is worthy to note that you will be surprised – the different noodle dishes bring consumers to a unique noodle experience. Executed flawlessly by Andrew’s nephew and Executive Chef CK Kalaw, who trained at Le Cordon Bleu in Australia, Raku’s noodles have a playful and distinct touch while still maintaining the soothing and familiar flavors.
Back to the playfulness of the cuisine: Andrew’s gyoza is just as light-hearted as the ramen. The gyoza festival at Raku brings in cheerful gratification with its innumerable choices all revolving around basic flavors of pork, chicken, shrimp, scallop and salmon. Interesting aftertastes transport the enthusiast to the agricultural serenity of Hokkaido, lingering on your palette like the unruffled composure of the scenery. Nevertheless, there is an underlying light-heartedness to the gyoza, from the fused variations to the more classic types. Take for instance the scallop gyoza, which imports its ingredients straight from Japan. Although the first bite is typical, the true flavors abound once you swallow, releasing memories of woodcuts, mountains and chilly peaceful lakes. The same holds for the more playful scallop curry kyo, whose curry mayonnaise provide an interesting twist on a long-beloved flavor. The shrimp gyoza is clean and refreshing, whereas the kabeyaki gyoza’s bonito flakes remind one of the seas that surround Hokkaido and the icy beauty that made it an obvious choice for the Winter Olympics.
A definite must-try is the various udon (noodles made of white rice flour) dishes. From the Hamaguri Udon, a delightful baby clam-and-Hondashi-sauce fare, to the Ebi Remon, a fresh shrimp in lemon bonito oil that impeccably combines a zesty acidity and a subtle saltiness, the noodle selection at Raku does not disappoint. Andrew explains further why he decided to begin a ramen house. He recalls his semester away with respect for the hard work of the Japanese: “The Japanese would have a quick meal of ramen, gyoza and beer (after work). Then they would go somewhere else to drink. Then to sober up, they would go back to the ramen house (before going home).” This same routine is what Andrew strives to develop in his beloved Philippines. The respect for the Japanese culture even goes as far as the décor: a gifted photographer, Andrew adorned Raku with beautiful images of Japanese scenes, including an arresting and mysterious geisha with her distinctive snow-white makeup and cherry-blossom lips.
Andrew Masigan is the moving force behind Advent Manila. A political enthusiast and an excellent writer, Andrew is at times quiet and reserved; at others, effervescent and interesting. Andrew himself is a play on opposites: he is a classy gentleman on the exterior, with a mischievous boyishness on the interior. This same spirit extends to Raku, which provides its consumers with comforting and legitimate Hokkaido cuisine in a typical Japanese setting, but surprises them with a playful and impish after taste – much like Andrew himself. All in all, the effect really does lend a sense of blissful happiness and contentment.
Raku is located at the ground floor of Le Grand Condominium, 130 Valero Street in Salcedo Village, Makati City. For delivery and take-out, call 553-6632. XO46 Bistro is a member of the Advent Manila Restaurant Group.
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